Napoleon: A Fashionable New Leader
Napoleon became the emperor of France in 1804 (Pinkerton). He is known to most for his great work with the French military (Jones). What many don't know about Napoleon was that with his new power as emperor, he began to bring the views of fashion in England back to a more extravagant and expensive style (Pinkerton). To carry out his vision of a more fashionable England, Napoleon brought in "Leroy, a popular tailor (Pinkerton)." With this new project Leroy became the top name in fashion (Pinkerton). As the picture at the left shows, Napoleon's new style included many layers, colors, and accessories.
Women's Fashion
The fashion of women changed greatly when Napoleon came to power. One of the biggest changes was that the clothing became more structured and intricate (Pinkerton). Dresses were worn floor length and often included empire waistlines (Langholt). The "Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve (Lad)," was also a new style which combined the previously popular puffy sleeve with a more modern fitted sleeve (Lad). The color of fabric used to make these dresses often symbolized what social class the woman belonged to (Lad). A lighter/white colored fabric was a symbol of a high societal class; this is because the white fabric got dirty very easily and wasn't very practical for those who could not afford new clothing on a regular basis (Lad). Cashmere shawls and parasols were popular accessories women used in this time (Lad). Another accessory that marked the more modern view on fashion under Napoleon was a piece of jewelry called the choker (Lad). Women in this time usually wore leather boots or slippers for shoes (Pinkerton). The leather boots served more of a purpose than the previously popular cloth slipper (Lad).
Men's Fashion
Men's fashion during this time also became more intricate especially in upper class men (Lad). One of the big changes to men's fashion came with the invention of the sewing machine, men now had trousers for pants which were a more fitted pant than the previously popular britches (Lad). With Napoleon's rule also came a more relaxed style of clothing for men (Lad). They wore tailcoats which often included a "standing collar (Jennings)." Men also became interested in accentuating their waistlines making them appear smaller (Pinkerton). They used sashes just as women did with their empire waist dresses (Pinkerton). A man's shoes was also a huge indication of their social status (Pinkerton). They wore boots, often at knee height and were most often times black in color (Jennings). There were two main types of boots worn in this time period. One was called the Hessian Boot, this style "had tassels and a heart-shaped design on top (Jennings)." The other popular style was the Wellington Boot (Jennings). This style was low cut in the back and high in the front (Jennings). Another sign of nobility regarding shoes was that they were leather, had detailing, and often had buckles (Pinkerton). Those of lower social class who could not afford the leather boots wore wooden clogs instead (Pinkerton).
The East India Company
The East India Company was the biggest trading company from Britain ("Textiles From India"). Fabrics from India "were a major part of the East India Company’s trade ("Trade Goods From The East: Textiles")," the English quickly grew fond of these Indian fabrics ("Trade Good From The East: Textiles"). One of these fabrics was called Chintz ("Textiles From India"). Chintz was used for anything from clothing to furniture coverings and was inexpensive enough for middle class English people to afford ("Textiles From India"). The Indian people who were making these popular fabrics were paid a set amount for their work ("Textiles From India"). This set amount of salary for their work was significantly less than the East India Company charged when they resold, resulting in a large profit for the company ("Textiles From India"). The East India Company was known for taking advantage of the Indian people for the sake of their own profitability ("Textiles From India").
Napoleon became the emperor of France in 1804 (Pinkerton). He is known to most for his great work with the French military (Jones). What many don't know about Napoleon was that with his new power as emperor, he began to bring the views of fashion in England back to a more extravagant and expensive style (Pinkerton). To carry out his vision of a more fashionable England, Napoleon brought in "Leroy, a popular tailor (Pinkerton)." With this new project Leroy became the top name in fashion (Pinkerton). As the picture at the left shows, Napoleon's new style included many layers, colors, and accessories.
Women's Fashion
The fashion of women changed greatly when Napoleon came to power. One of the biggest changes was that the clothing became more structured and intricate (Pinkerton). Dresses were worn floor length and often included empire waistlines (Langholt). The "Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve (Lad)," was also a new style which combined the previously popular puffy sleeve with a more modern fitted sleeve (Lad). The color of fabric used to make these dresses often symbolized what social class the woman belonged to (Lad). A lighter/white colored fabric was a symbol of a high societal class; this is because the white fabric got dirty very easily and wasn't very practical for those who could not afford new clothing on a regular basis (Lad). Cashmere shawls and parasols were popular accessories women used in this time (Lad). Another accessory that marked the more modern view on fashion under Napoleon was a piece of jewelry called the choker (Lad). Women in this time usually wore leather boots or slippers for shoes (Pinkerton). The leather boots served more of a purpose than the previously popular cloth slipper (Lad).
Men's Fashion
Men's fashion during this time also became more intricate especially in upper class men (Lad). One of the big changes to men's fashion came with the invention of the sewing machine, men now had trousers for pants which were a more fitted pant than the previously popular britches (Lad). With Napoleon's rule also came a more relaxed style of clothing for men (Lad). They wore tailcoats which often included a "standing collar (Jennings)." Men also became interested in accentuating their waistlines making them appear smaller (Pinkerton). They used sashes just as women did with their empire waist dresses (Pinkerton). A man's shoes was also a huge indication of their social status (Pinkerton). They wore boots, often at knee height and were most often times black in color (Jennings). There were two main types of boots worn in this time period. One was called the Hessian Boot, this style "had tassels and a heart-shaped design on top (Jennings)." The other popular style was the Wellington Boot (Jennings). This style was low cut in the back and high in the front (Jennings). Another sign of nobility regarding shoes was that they were leather, had detailing, and often had buckles (Pinkerton). Those of lower social class who could not afford the leather boots wore wooden clogs instead (Pinkerton).
The East India Company
The East India Company was the biggest trading company from Britain ("Textiles From India"). Fabrics from India "were a major part of the East India Company’s trade ("Trade Goods From The East: Textiles")," the English quickly grew fond of these Indian fabrics ("Trade Good From The East: Textiles"). One of these fabrics was called Chintz ("Textiles From India"). Chintz was used for anything from clothing to furniture coverings and was inexpensive enough for middle class English people to afford ("Textiles From India"). The Indian people who were making these popular fabrics were paid a set amount for their work ("Textiles From India"). This set amount of salary for their work was significantly less than the East India Company charged when they resold, resulting in a large profit for the company ("Textiles From India"). The East India Company was known for taking advantage of the Indian people for the sake of their own profitability ("Textiles From India").
Fashion and Vanity Fair
Thackeray's novel, Vanity Fair, includes many connections with real world fashion from the time the book was written. We see these connections sprinkled throughout the book. One of these is Jos Sedley. When we are first introduced to Jos we are given a very detailed description of his appearance. "A very stout, puffy man, in buckskins and Hessian boots, with several immense neckcloths, that rose almost to his nose, with a red striped waistcoat and an apple-green coast with steel buttons almost as large as crown pieces (it was the morning costume of a dandy or blood of those days) (Thackeray, 19)." When we think of men we do not generally think of them being highly concerned with their appearance. So, for Thackeray to describe his clothing so thoroughly gives us a little insight into Jos's character. Also, this description tells us that Jos is a very wealthy man. He has the Hessian boots that were so popular at the time and he is very proud of them as we later hear him talk about them often times. The boots, as mentioned above, had "tassels and a heart shaped design on top (Jennings)." The neckcloths that Thackeray mentions in this quote were another fashion staple of the time. They were also known as Cravats and were the equivalent of the modern day necktie or bowtie (Jennings). Later, we are again being given a look at Jos Sedley's clothing choices, "Like most fat men, he would have his clothes made too tight, and took care they should be of the most brilliant colours and youthful cut (Thackeray, 22)." We learn from this quote that his clothes are far too tight for his heavy stature. This is a sign of Jos Sedley's wealth. Anyone who could afford to wear clothes that barely fit would be someone who had a lot of disposable income. Also, this quote tells us that his clothes are made in very vibrant fabrics. Fabrics that were made in so bright of colors were not usually inexpensive. These include fabrics such as velvet and silk (Jennings). Another quote about Jos is heard later when we hear of the job that he holds in India. "Joseph Sedley was twelve years older than his sister Amelia. He was in the East India Company's Civil Service, and his name appeared, at the period of which we write, in the Bengal division of the East India Register, as collector of Boogley Wollah, an honourable and lucrative post, as everybody knows: in order to know to what higher posts Joseph Sedley rose in the service, the reader is referred to the same periodical (Thackeray, 21)." This gives us an insight to Joseph's career. He worked for the East India Company. This company was a real company that was known for deceiving cloth makers in India and paying them very low for their goods to turn around and make a very high profit off of them.
Thackeray's novel, Vanity Fair, includes many connections with real world fashion from the time the book was written. We see these connections sprinkled throughout the book. One of these is Jos Sedley. When we are first introduced to Jos we are given a very detailed description of his appearance. "A very stout, puffy man, in buckskins and Hessian boots, with several immense neckcloths, that rose almost to his nose, with a red striped waistcoat and an apple-green coast with steel buttons almost as large as crown pieces (it was the morning costume of a dandy or blood of those days) (Thackeray, 19)." When we think of men we do not generally think of them being highly concerned with their appearance. So, for Thackeray to describe his clothing so thoroughly gives us a little insight into Jos's character. Also, this description tells us that Jos is a very wealthy man. He has the Hessian boots that were so popular at the time and he is very proud of them as we later hear him talk about them often times. The boots, as mentioned above, had "tassels and a heart shaped design on top (Jennings)." The neckcloths that Thackeray mentions in this quote were another fashion staple of the time. They were also known as Cravats and were the equivalent of the modern day necktie or bowtie (Jennings). Later, we are again being given a look at Jos Sedley's clothing choices, "Like most fat men, he would have his clothes made too tight, and took care they should be of the most brilliant colours and youthful cut (Thackeray, 22)." We learn from this quote that his clothes are far too tight for his heavy stature. This is a sign of Jos Sedley's wealth. Anyone who could afford to wear clothes that barely fit would be someone who had a lot of disposable income. Also, this quote tells us that his clothes are made in very vibrant fabrics. Fabrics that were made in so bright of colors were not usually inexpensive. These include fabrics such as velvet and silk (Jennings). Another quote about Jos is heard later when we hear of the job that he holds in India. "Joseph Sedley was twelve years older than his sister Amelia. He was in the East India Company's Civil Service, and his name appeared, at the period of which we write, in the Bengal division of the East India Register, as collector of Boogley Wollah, an honourable and lucrative post, as everybody knows: in order to know to what higher posts Joseph Sedley rose in the service, the reader is referred to the same periodical (Thackeray, 21)." This gives us an insight to Joseph's career. He worked for the East India Company. This company was a real company that was known for deceiving cloth makers in India and paying them very low for their goods to turn around and make a very high profit off of them.